TMS-RGB → Build it → Test Jig

Build a Test Jig to Speed Up Validation

If you'll be making more than a few TMS-RGB v2 boards—especially if you'll be selling them and don't want to leave traces of solder on the boards—it might be worthwhile to create a test jig to speed up the process. The only tools required for building one are access to an FDM 3D printer, a soldering iron, and a screwdriver.

  1. 3D print the two halves of the jig base (top and bottom) with the angled cutouts facing down.
  2. Order the test bed PCB from OSH Park.
  3. Buy a pack of toggle clamps, some generic 0.1" header pins (or sockets), and some P75-D3 pogo pins. (P75-E3 might work in a pinch, but you won't get as nice of contact.)
  4. You'll need four M3 and four M5 screws+nuts. 8mm and 20mm lengths, respectively. This kit contains all the hardware you'll need.
  5. Solder five header pins at the left of the board.
  6. Solder seven header pins at the right side of the board unless this jig will be testing TMS-RGB boards that already have an output jack connected. I made two: one jig with both sets of header pins (for testing freshly assembled boards) and another jig with the right-hand set missing (for testing boards after I'd soldered the output wires on).
  7. Screw the PCB onto the bottom half of the 3D printed base with M3 screws. Nuts go underneath.
  8. Using the depth/alignment guides in the 3D printed part, insert pogo pins into all remaining holes and solder them in place.
  9. Screw the clamp and both halves of the 3D printed base together with M5 screws. Nuts go underneath.
  10. Loosen the clamp's bolts, place a TMS-RGB PCB in place (checking that the pogo pins are straight and make good contact), then adjust the clamp's plunger position and tighten the bolts such that the board-under-test nearly (or completely) bottoms-out the pogo pins.

That should be it. When using the jig, it's best to locate and depress the board with your hands while actuating the plunger (as shown in the video). Otherwise it tends to knock the board off to the side. Do the same in reverse to prevent the board from popping up suddenly.